Every climbing location is unique in its own way, and each crag has a character and flavor of its own, but few places in the world compare to the rock climbing found in Utah. The red sandstone desert exudes a magnetic draw upon rock climbers and the state has become one of the most popular climbing destinations in the United States. Utah’s bizarre and beautiful geology—the strange subaquatic derivative of a long-gone inland sea—is full of unbelievable climbing opportunities. From corkscrew summits, to skinny towers, to the biggest concentration of parallel-sided cracks in the world, Utah’s notoriety among the climbing community is well deserved.
Let it be known that Utah is not all trad climbs and sandstone splitters. Salt Lake City’s Little and Big Cottonwood Canyons have fantastic sport climbing and bouldering on granite and quartzite; St. George is surrounded by an abundance of good rock of varying types; Zion has everything from bouldering to sport climbs and ice climbs; and bouldering areas like Triassic, Ibex, and Joe’s Valley are some of the best in the country. Utah is so stacked with good rock, good weather, and year-round climbing areas that it’s hard for any other state to compete.
Bouldering
If Joe’s Valley isn’t yet on your radar yet, it should be. This wide basin of sandstone blocks offers a plethora of superb problems on sticky but skin-friendly rock. Joe’s is excellent in spring and fall but sweltering in summer. When you need to beat the heat, head out to Little Cottonwood Canyon’s granite boulders. Less than 30 minutes from Salt Lake City, LCC has tons of great problems to keep you busy. For winter, try Moe’s Valley right in the town of St. George, a sandstone bouldering mecca with a seemingly endless supply of problems at all difficulty levels.
Must-do route: The Angler
Guidebook: Joe's Valley Bouldering by Isaac Caldiero
Sport Climbing
There’s so much to choose from here, but the unique cobble pebbles of Maple Canyon take the cake. Maple’s steep overhangs of conglomerate rock are full of pockets and cobbles, creating an other-worldly climbing experience. From steep jug hauls on armful-size buckets to technical face climbs on tiny pockets, Maple has a little bit of everything. On top of it all, the setting is beautiful, the camping can’t be beat, and you’ll find good weather and temperatures here from May through October. There’s even a little bit of multipitch! Check out the “Must-do route” Tachycardia below for one of the coolest sport climbs anywhere.
Must-do route: Tachycardia
Guidebook: Maple Valley Rock Climbs
Trad Climbing
If you are a trad climber and you haven’t heard of Indian Creek, chances are you don’t have a pulse. This seemingly endless barrage of splitter cracks is one of the most unique and coveted trad climbing destinations in the world. Canyon after canyon and wall after wall are full of perfect cracks. If jamming is your idea of a good time, Indian Creek is your heaven. In a state that also features Zion National Park, Castleton Tower, Moab’s Wall Street, and countless other desert classics, none can compare to Indian Creek’s incomparable perfection. The icing on the cake? Indian Creek has really good weather, along with both sunny and shaded walls. Summer is really hot, but you can definitely find good days at the Creek nine months a year (September through May).
Must-do route: Incredible Hand Crack
Guidebook: Indian Creek: A Climbing Guide by David Bloom
Towers
Towers are not really a distinct category from trad climbing, but we felt that it warranted its own designation here. Utah is full of wild free-standing towers—one of the most unique features in climbing. The mystique around Utah’s towers is well deserved and there’s even a guidebook (below) devoted just to the topic. We have to admit, standing atop Castleton Tower, and looking around at a 360-degree vertical 500-foot drop is a feeling unlike any other. If you are more into peak-bagging than hang-dogging, this may be the category for you.
Must-do route: Ancient Art
Guidebook: Desert Rock IV by Eric Bjornstad